The “hinges from hell.”
The deck box itself is quick and easy to build, but the hinges took me an additional 60 minutes. I was eventually successful, so here are the steps I followed.
I broke the installation into two parts – installing the hinges onto the side panels, and installing the lid onto the hinges.
INSTALLING THE HINGES ONTO THE SIDE PANELS.
Step one – loosen the hinge springs.
YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO MOVE THE HINGES UNLESS YOU LOOSEN THE SPRINGS. The hinge springs come tightened down as far as they will go, so you will not be able to manipulate the springs unless you adjust their tension.
Insert the Allen wrench that comes in the hardware kit into the lower end of the spring, and loosen the tension nut until there is at least 1 ½” of the tensioning screw showing. I think the tension screw is around 2” to 2½”, so do be careful not to remove the tensioning nut entirely.
Step two – Close the hinge and fit it in place.
There are no pilot holes drilled for the hinges, so you have to figure out where to install them.
The hinges come in an open position, so you need to close them before you can fit them to the box. Otherwise you’re just guessing at where to install the hinges.
The springs will be flopping around after you loosened the tension nuts, but the hinges will still very difficult to manipulate.
I found it helpful to use a large pair of pliers to grab the front of the hinges’ top plate, and use the leverage of the pliers to pull the top plate down into the closed position.
Be careful of grabbing just the edge of the top plate, because you can easily bend the metal. Also watch your fingers. The hinges have a LOT of tension, so they can seriously pinch a finger.
Squeeze the hinge halves together to make sure the top plate is all the way closed.
Line up the rear edge of the closed hinge with rear panel of the box. I aligned the hinge so that the top plate is flush with the top edges of the box’s side and back, and is butted up against the back panel.
Now you can install two of the three mounting screws into the hinge’s side mounting panel. The third screw hole will be blocked by the spring, so you’ll have to open the spring again to install that one.
I used an awl to create a starting hole for the screw, but it also wouldn’t hurt to drill a small pilot hole. That will help prevent you from stripping the screws, since they’re fairly hard to drive in.
Drive the first two screws in all the way. Don’t pay attention to the instructions telling you to keep the screws loose. You need the hinge to be securely fastened to the box so you can open it back up again to install the third screw.
With the first two screws installed, open the hinge up again so you can access the third screw hole.
The best way I found to open the hinge by hand is to lift up on the front corner of the top hinge plate, the portion furthest from the back of the box. The hinge will be tight and difficult to open, so again, watch your fingers.
Install the third screw, and the hinge should be secure attached the box. Repeat the steps above to install the second hinge onto the other side panel.
INSTALLING THE LID ONTO THE HINGES
Fully close both hinges again, so the hinge top plates are flush with the top edge of the box.
Finish tightening up the all the screws that attach the box’s sides, front and back. The instructions way to keep the screws loose, but the box needs to the square and tight for the next step.
Lay the lid upside-down on the cardboard packing box. This will help prevent the lid from getting scratched.
Turn the assembled deck box upside-down, and place it on top of the lid. Align the box so the outside edge of the rear panel is flush to rear edge of the lid.
Adjust the box left to right so it’s centered on the lid. I found that ½” on either side centers the box pretty well.
Mark the spots for the lid screws using the holes in the hinge top plates.
The hinge springs will be in the way, so use a knife or something long and thin that can slide between the spring coils and mark the places to install the screws. I found that rear screw holes were 2 ½” from the back of the box, if that helps.
After you’ve marked all four holes, remove the box from the lid.
I strongly recommend that you drill pilot holes for the lid screws. It’s difficult to drive the screws into the wood, so it’s easy to strip them without pilot holes.
Install the four screws into the four pilot holes until they’re about 2/3 of the way in.
With the assembled box sitting upright on the ground, slide the lid onto hinges by aligning the screws with the holes in the hinge top plates. Tighten the screws as far in as they’ll go.
The hinges will probably still be really tight, so you can loosen them even more using the Allen wrench to back out the tensioning nut.